Just arrived on the overnight train to Mumbai

Dear lovely people,As usual I have only a couple minutes on a computer – this time in the Royal Inn lobby in Mumbai as we wait for our new room to be cleaned. Very shortly we’ll be picked up to attend Lalit’s cousin’s thread ceremony, which is some sort of manhood ritual. I tried to get a fix on it (recitations? fancy dress? bloodletting?) but mostly Lalit and his brother shrug and say, Well, there’ll be food…We took the overnight train from Delhi. I took lots of pictures. Three-decker bunk beds that fold out from the wall, little curtains to cordon off your berth, hot tea in personal thermoses delivered every few hours, soup ferried by in tin pails and sensibly served in paper cups. A man to flick your lights on at 6:30 am whether you want them on or not. I loved it.I am enjoying the hell out of myself so far. Although a moment of peace and calm and a little less shopping would be nice.

Early conversations indicated that western-style clothes would be acceptable for the ceremonies, but it is seeming more and more that fancy Indian wear would complement the occasion better. So in between occasional sight-seeing we roam around the clothing districts of the major cities and try on elaborate spangled outfits. All day. Every day. I have not bought one yet. They are not cheap, but are gorgeously elaborate and silken and bedecked with beads and sequins and glass gems. I may be able to borrow something from Tracy, but if I fall in love with a “suit” (salwar kameez) I may get something. At some shops they prefer you don’t take pictures (in case you plan to run to your tailor for a knock-off), so I have been reduced to sneaking photos in the dressing room mirrors so you can all see.I saw Egyptian vultures at Someone’s Tomb.I will send this bit and then try for another – still no luck entering a room.Love love love,
Deborah